Grand Canary. Key West. Ibiza. Oahu. Phuket. While a chain of gay-friendly island destinations encircles the globe, there has traditionally been one missing link -- any Caribbean isle. That is, until now. Despite a well-deserved reputation for entrenched homophobia, frequent discrimination against gay citizens, and even open hostility to gay and lesbian travelers, there are signs that at least a handful of Caribbean destinations -- favorite subtropical stomping grounds for spring-breakers, straight couples and "traditional" families -- are changing their tunes.

 

Gay-friendly-ish Caribbean Whether prompted by economic considerations or internal or external pressures -- or, in some cases, all three -- island nations such as St. Lucia, the Netherlands Antilles and the Cayman Islands are, if not openly courting gay travelers, at least challenging reputations for rampant homophobia.

Even in terminally bigoted Jamaica -- which Amnesty International has described as "suffering from an appalling level of homophobia" -there's been some movement, if incremental, on the domestic front.

First, Jamaica-based, couples-only resort chain Sandals in Octobe 2004 lifted its longtime ban on same-sex couples. Now, Jamaican deputy education minister Donald Rhodd has raised controversy by calling for a review of Victorian-era laws criminalizing homosexuality, a legislative legacy the island shares with at least seven other neighbors once ruled by Great Britain, including Barbados, St. Lucia, and Trinidad and Tobago.

And marginally more tolerant Aruba -- as part of the Netherlands Antilles, subject to both Dutch and European Union law -- was forced to recognize the recent marriage of two lesbian residents.

Gay travel to the Caribbean But what do these developments on the legal front portend for gay travel to the Caribbean?

Actually, not much, because in many such cases, it's the economic allure of the gay and lesbian traveler -- or even his or her mere stubborn insistence on showing up at local airports -- that might be driving change in the first place. In fact, gays and lesbians have always vacationed in the Caribbean, if in small numbers -- and if under the radar and in the closet.

Moreover, gay and gay-friendly cruises run by Atlantis Events, RSVP, R Family Vacations and other operators insist on calling in many balmy Caribbean ports, chilly welcomes and cold shoulders notwithstanding.

Caribbean travel veteran Alan Chastanet, owner of St. Lucia's Coco Resorts and vice president of the island's hotel and tourist board, said that as far as he and his hospitality colleagues are concerned, homosexuality is a "non-issue."

"I think we're all past that [and] we've been reaching out to the gay market," he said, adding that he's an advocate of removing dusty anti-gay legislation from the island's books.

"But I don't want anyone to accuse me of doing this to greedily go after the gay travel dollar," Chastanet said. "I am merely speaking as a citizen interested in the development of his country."

For all that, the Caribbean region still offers slim gay-vacation pickings. The closest approximations of gay life are to be found -- ironically enough -- in American territories such as Puerto Rico or St. Croix, in the U.S. Virgin Islands, or on French or Dutch-speaking islands, such as Curaçao, Sint Maarten/ St. Martin and Guadeloupe. Generally speaking, the gay-friendliness of each Caribbean island is tied to cultural heritage, meaning French or Dutch equals friendly; Spanish less so; and British even less, though of course this is completely different in the United Kingdom itself.

Politics plays a role as well. Islands ruled from abroad, such as U.S. territories or Dutch dependencies, tend toward tolerance. Great Britain has called on Commonwealth islands to be more tolerant. But independence or home rule -- as in Jamaica -- or totalitarian governments (read: Cuba) can spell oppression for local homosexuals and pose problems for out gay and lesbian travelers.

Gay travelers looking for a Caribbean stay in an even more welcoming environment might look at mainland resort destinations along Mexico's Yucatan Peninsula coast.

But even in hospitable Caribbean island destinations, gay-specific or gay-exclusive resorts and nightlife tend to be thin on the ground, save perhaps in Puerto Rican metropolis San Juan.

But it's possible to be gay and to vacation both happily and safely in much of the Caribbean -- provided visitors are realistic about expectations. They also must reconcile themselves to the cultural, social, and political realities of each island destination. For example, while Cuba has a burgeoning and lively underground gay scene,homosexuality remains both illegal and punishable with prison time.